We are told that this is just the first Constant Escapement model to be released. Details are scant, but given that this watch is not a limited edition, and that we are only given a view of the 18k white gold models means that Girard-Perregaux has interesting plans for this technology. What I want to know is how delicate it is. This leads me to the discuss what the hell a constant force escapement even is, and what you are looking at. Well it is something that is meant to solve an age old question, and one that most watch makers like to gloss over. The issue regards what happens as power from the mainspring moving to the rest of the movement is uneven as the spring unwinds? This causes rate errors in timing (meaning that a watch is prone to run fast when fully wound, to slow when almost unwound). Think of the car engine example and the torque curve. At various RPMs, different amounts of power come from the engine to the wheels. For cars, this isn't an issue as there is no need to maintain the same speed as the RPMs increase or decrease, but what if that was the case.
ABTW: How many of these watches will you make, how much will they cost, and exactly how do people buy them?
It is indeed a small world. I'd like to share with you a charity auction featuring a Girard-Perregaux timepiece which is connected to my family (the charity not the watch). Girard-Perregaux has donated a new 1966 Automatic 41mm watch (new for 2012) that is currently being auctioned-off in support of the University Kidney Research Organization (UKRO).
After wearing the Raven 44mm Deep for a couple of weeks, I can report that I rather like it, it is not a clone nor would it pass as a specific Rolex if you changed the name on the dial. The Raven 44mm Deep really is a modern and full sized spin on the MilSub and it offers something that Rolex does not and for a price that is more than competitive. While my stance on Sub clones and homages is at best apathetic, the Raven 44mm Deep does make an intriguing case for a watch that emulates some elements, such as the dial design, while still trying to offer something different in the product as a whole. If, like me, you have trouble wearing a large and rather heavy diver as a day-to-day piece, sit tight as Raven is planning a 42mm iteration of the Deep series seen here.
The combination of elements and design in the Sinn EZM 10 make it a really desirable timepiece in my opinion. Sinn actually released a range of very nice watches for 2012, so I expect even better stuff from them next year. The EZM 10 is priced higher than its counterparts given all the little details. Though it still isn't a wildly expensive watch. In Europe the price for the Sinn EZM 10 ranges from 3,950 - 4,250 Euros. Via the US distributor, the price is ,670 on the leather strap.
Military and other professional wearers are probably best advised to stick with Casio's totally digital offerings due to the ease of operation, very good darkness viewing, and easy-to- read displays. Those looking for a less instrument-like (or less nerdy) G-Shock will swoon to offerings such as this very well made G-Shock Aviation GWA1000-A1. Even though it is 54.1mm wide, it feels as though it wears smaller, especially as the case is quite light. Casio is getting everything right in the visual design and tactile experience department. They just need to marry that with the solid reliability and wonderful thoughtfulness they are known for in the functionality department. This isn't an oversight, but more a progression as Casio pushes to combine its legendary digital design with an analog display. Once again, there are always sacrifices to be made for style. Price for the Casio G-Shock Aviation GW-A1000 is 0. gshock.com
In the world of haute horology, you have your classics like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne, and then you have wacky brands like Rebellion. The Rebellion T-1000 Gotham gets its name from its 1000 hours long power reserve and Gotham City-inspired dark color scheme. Time is told off two belts, not unlike the Devon Tread One; however, unlike the Devon Tread One, the Rebellion T-1000 is completely mechanical and therefore costs considerably more too.
There is a 40mm wide version of the Levitas available as a women's piece. It also comes in an "Art" range that has interesting and more high-end dials. Some of the Levitas Art models also come with diamond covered cases (in case you wanted to know). When it comes down to it, 2013 is certainly a good year for mystery watches. If there is a market for these timepieces then we will find out soon. I think the watches are cool and will do reasonably well. Of course, there are some practical considerations to wearing these - namely that you will see part of your wrist through the watch each time you or your friends look at the dial. It was recommended to me (in jest but you could do it) that you could just selectively shave a round area on your wrist under the dial. So, by all means go for it.
Where: Lakeland Community College, Kirtland, OH, Cleveland area, just off I90 at SR 306 exit
Address: 7700 Clocktower Blvd., Kirtland, OH 44094
TAG Heuer will offer the Link Calibre 18 in both a black dialed (ref. CAT2110) model and a silvered dialed (ref. CAT2111) version. In a big way you can see these mid-range two register chronographs as being more affordable versions of TAG Heuer's ultimate two register chronograph movement, the Calibre 36, which you can find in some high-end Carrera models and is essentially a Zenith El Primero high-beat chronograph. Prices for those starts at 7,500 Swiss Francs, while you can get a Link Calibre 18 for 4,900 Swiss Francs soon. tagheuer.com
In addition to Swiss manufacturing partners SC2 and Manufacture Hautes Complications, Spero Lucem was co-founded by a female watch collector. She is Caiyun Song, an articulate and clever businesswoman from China who no doubt helped restrain Arpa when it came to producing a unique, yet sorta conservative high-end timepiece - dreamed up in, and honoring the city of Geneva. Spero Lucem as a brand is something that could only exist in the luxury industry. A low production maker of wild items that no one needs, but many people instinctively want. So let's take a look at this rather special watch.
What I’m referring to here, is the under-lug corrector lever mechanism they utilize in many of their mid to high-complication timepieces. Those fortunate enough to spend time with a complication, such as a calendar (annual or perpetual), will be familiar with the way the registers are typically set. Micropushers (which look like little nipples) are set around the case and are used to manually adjust the day, date, month, moon phase, etc. The process for making adjustments to these registers has historically been about as high-tech as using duct tape to hang the exhaust on your car. The typical process is to take a pin (or in some cases, a special branded pusher device which is…a pin) and push it into the center of the micropusher to operate it and change the register in question.
This is my favorite to-date. The size is much more versatile, and with the dressier dial color, this becomes a watch you can wear all week long. Bash it around and it'll look better, and for the price you don't have to panic about a dent or two. An understated Shark Diver. Who would have thought? helson-watches.com
Maximilian Büsser (MB): From my childhood? Absolutely none! There is absolutely nothing in my background which was linked to watchmaking.
I've lost count of the number of sizes and variations Breitling has released in the Superocean Heritage collection. The great looking diver range remains one of my favorites in the Breitling line-up, but there are so many versions I have a feeling the top brass at Breitling can't even name them all. So let's see what I know. The Superocean Heritage is/was available in 38mm, 42mm, 44mm, and 46mm wide sizes. It comes/came as a three-hander, three-hander with subsidiary seconds dial, and two chronograph versions. Then there are the oodles of dial and bezel color variations, and right there is where it gets really murky. For example you can get an all black version. A black dial with a green bezel. A green bezel with a green dial, and the list goes on. I guess Breitling just wants to make sure there is a Superocean Heritage for just about everybody.