A True Oddity: The Omega Speedmaster Hackett
Inside the MotoGP 2012 Automatic beats a C01.211 movement. It was designed as a lower cost 7750 and some of those cost savings can be seen on the Tissot T-Race MotoGP 2012. Despite having a display back, the movement is completely unfinished. Tissot does a good job disguising this with the use of a painted rotor and wheel spoke design which partially obstructs the view and calls attention away from the movement itself. This is actually more in line with racing vehicles that typically value function over form and rarely include detailed finishes. The chronograph pushers have a very different sound and feel depending on what you are doing. The start and reset pushes have a satisfyingly significant snap in both sound and feel while pressing the first pusher. Stopping the count has a soft feel and is nearly silent. This difference in feel could lead to false stops should the watch be used in an actual timing function. The chronograph second hand also does not perfectly line up with zero in the test piece, though that should be an easy fix. To its credit, the T-Race did keep exceptional time during my time with it.
Engineering ceramics are extremely hard. They are the hardest class of materials known. So scratching a ceramic watch would not be much of a concern. They are usually more than three or four times harder than stainless steel. The high-tech coatings on watches are essentially ceramics. Actually tools made of ceramics are being used to cut metals in mills or lathes. When used properly, they have much longer lives than conventional tools. Related to their hardness, they are good in terms of wear resistance, which is the loss of materials that are in moving contact for long periods of time. This is why rubies are used as bearings in watch movements (21 jewels anyone?). They maintain a smooth surface and low friction for a long time. Thus, thanks to ceramics, mechanical watches can run for years. And their usage on watch cases ensure far less scratches on our beloved timepieces. Hublot has recently developed a ceramic/gold composite, which will hopefully make gold much harder.
The first thing I thought to myself when I saw these new watches from Buben & Zorweg was "that looks an awful lot like a Martin Braun." Low and behold, Martin Braun is the man behind the movements in these watches. The architecture looks a lot like some of his new stuff at his current brand Antoine Martin. You can see a hands-on look at the Antoine Martin Perpetual Calendar watch here. The movement in this One Perpetual Calendar piece is directly adopted from that piece.
The Bombers watches (that forced plurality is going to get annoying. Is each just a "Bomber?") are playful and fun. They comment on the pop culture and the art historically found on military bomber planes and other flying fortresses. Each of the Bombers' dials are decorated with graphics that resemble nose and fuselage art, as well as military markers and emblems.